Cotton construction
Numbered Duck Fabric — No. 1 to No. 12, Manufacturer
The graded army-duck scale, No. 12 (light) to No. 1 (heavy).
Army or numbered duck is graded on the US scale, where a lower number is a heavier cloth: No. 12 is around 7 oz, No. 1 around 18–19 oz. We weave the range in 2-ply plain construction for structural bags, tool rolls, heavy covers and traditional footwear. See the grade chart below for the oz and g/m² each number maps to.
Characteristics of our numbered duck (army duck)
- Cotton duck graded on the US army-duck scale — a lower number is a heavier cloth.
- 2-ply plain construction: two-ply warp and weft for even structure and a firm, flat face.
- A legacy of military and sailmaking specification, still used for luggage, footwear and heavy covers.
- Spec a number and we match the weight and construction; spec an oz range and we map it to the nearest number.
Specification
- Weave
- 2-ply plain (army duck)
- Construction examples
- No. 8 — 10.10s 2-ply / 34x22 · No. 4 — 8.8s 2-ply / 30x20 · No. 1 — 6.6s 2-ply / 26x18
- Weight
- 230–640 g/m² (7–19 oz)
- Width
- 36 to 120 inches
- Supplied as
- GREIGE, RFD, DYED
- Fibre
- 100% cotton
Indicative ranges. The exact article, yarn count, ends and picks per inch, GSM and width, is confirmed at RFQ.
Numbered Duck (Army Duck) weight guide (oz & g/m²)
Common weight bands and what each is usually chosen for. Any weight in the range is made to order; we confirm the construction that hits your target.
| oz/yd² | g/m² | Band | Typically used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7 oz | ≈230 g/m² | No. 12 | Light bags, garment interlining, book cloth |
| 10 oz | ≈340 g/m² | No. 10 / No. 8 | Tool and utility bags, footwear uppers, aprons |
| 12 oz | ≈410 g/m² | No. 6 | Luggage, sacks, equipment covers |
| 15 oz | ≈510 g/m² | No. 4 | Heavy covers, upholstery base, floor cloth |
| 19 oz | ≈640 g/m² | No. 1 | Structural, industrial and marine use |
Ordering numbered duck (army duck) from the mill
Every length is made to your specification — there is no stock list. Send a target construction (yarn counts, ends and picks, weave), a weight in g/m² or oz, a finished width, and the finish state you need: greige, RFD, piece-dyed against a lab dip, or printed. If you only have an end use or a physical sample, we identify the closest article and confirm it on a swatch before bulk.
The minimum is 100 m for greige with no per-colour minimum, or 1000 m per colour once processing is involved. Greige runs in about 2 days; dyed or printed takes about 2 weeks including approvals. We ship FOB Mundra / Nhava Sheva or CIF destination port from Mundra or Nhava Sheva, on a staged payment structure where only 10% is committed before production.
Ordering
- Minimum order
- 100 m greige · 1000 m per colour processed
- Lead time
- about 2 days greige · about 2 weeks processed
- Incoterms
- FOB Mundra / Nhava Sheva · CIF destination port
- Price
- Per metre or per kg, band on request
Payment 10% on order, 15% at production start, 50% on passing QC, 25% on dispatch. OEKO-TEX and GOTS applied for and in progress as of September 2026, not yet granted. Organic cotton available now. SMETA not pursued.
Finishes
Applied in-house or through our approved process-house partners, confirmed against your specification at RFQ:
- RFD
- Piece-dyed
- Wax and water-repellent
- Stiffened
Typical uses
Where numbered duck (army duck) is specified most often. Open a use for the exact weight, width and finish we recommend for it:
- Structural and tool bags
- Heavy-duty covers and shelters
- Traditional footwear
- Luggage and cases
Numbered Duck (Army Duck) for a specific use
Common questions
What's your minimum order?
100 m for greige, 1,000 m per colour for processed fabric. No full-container minimum.
How wide can you weave?
Up to 140 inch (about 356 cm). Most mills top out at 63 to 98 inch, so wide cloth usually means a seam. Here it doesn't.
How heavy can you go?
Up to 800 GSM (about 24 oz). Many mills cap around 400 to 500.
How fast is delivery?
Greige in about 2 days, processed in about 2 weeks. That's production time; sea transit is on top. Market norm is 30 to 45 days.
Are you GOTS or OEKO-TEX certified?
Both applied for and in progress as of September 2026, not granted yet. Many buyers sample in parallel while certs complete. Organic cotton is available now.
You're a new mill. Why should I risk an order?
The plant is new; the family behind it has 50 years in textile manufacturing, and this is the third generation. We start with a swatch pack, then a small paid trial. Payment is staged 10/15/50/25, so only 10% is at risk before production. Specs are transparent; certs are dated.
What are your payment terms?
10% on order, 15% at production start, 50% on passing QC, 25% on dispatch. Move to LC once we've traded.
Can you do RFD so we dye locally?
Yes. RFD by the roll is a core line. MOQ 100 m as greige, or take it RFD.
Do you ship to the UK, US, EU or Australia?
Yes. FOB Mundra or Nhava Sheva, or CIF to your port. UK buyers: the India–UK deal removes UK import duty on Indian cotton fabric.
Can I get a sample?
Yes. A swatch pack plus price list to start, then trial yardage.