Nothing Before Textile

What weight canvas do I need? A guide by end use

The most common question we get is "what weight canvas should I order?" — usually with no end use attached. Weight on its own does not answer it; the job does. Here is the practical shortlist.

By product

ProductWeightg/m²Why
Promotional / event tote5–7 oz170–240Cost per unit and print area matter more than load
Everyday shopper / book tote8–10 oz270–340Stands up empty, still comfortable to carry and sew
Grocery / tool bag12–16 oz410–540Carries weight, holds hardware, survives abrasion
Apron / workwear8–12 oz270–410Structure without stiffness, washes well
Cushion / furniture cover10–14 oz340–470Holds shape on a frame, takes a rub test
Tent / marquee panel12–15 oz410–510Weather load, seam strength, still workable
Tarpaulin / machine cover16–24 oz540–800Maximum abrasion and tear, proofed
Artist canvas7–12 oz240–410Even surface, takes primer and stretch tension

Three things that change the answer

  1. Stitching and hardware. Rivets, D-rings and webbing need a cloth that will not tear at the fixing. Go one band heavier than the "carry weight" alone suggests.
  2. Finish. A PU or PVC coating adds effective weight and stiffness; you can often drop a band if the cloth is coated.
  3. Width. If you need a seamless panel wider than 98 inches, that constrains the loom before the weight does — sort the width first.

Duck or canvas?

At the same weight, a tight plain-weave duck is firmer and more abrasion-resistant; a canvas (especially basket weave) is a touch softer and more pliable. For bags and structured goods, duck. For covers and drape, canvas. Both are made to order here from 100 m.

Tell us the product and we will send the exact construction and a swatch.

All notes

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